.xm-page[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{--warm-paper: var(--paper, #F4ECDC);--warm-paper-soft: var(--paper-soft, #FAF6EE);--warm-paper-deep: var(--paper-deep, #ECE2CD);--ink-deep: var(--ink, #161412);--ink-soft: rgba(22, 20, 18, .74);--ink-faint: rgba(22, 20, 18, .5);--gold: #A88436;--gold-deep: #826527;--gold-soft: #C9A867;--rule: rgba(22, 20, 18, .1);--rule-strong: rgba(22, 20, 18, .2);--font-display: var(--us-font-display, var(--font-display));--font-body: var(--us-font-body, var(--font-body));--gutter: clamp(1.25rem, 4vw, 3rem);--max: 1280px;background:var(--warm-paper);color:var(--ink-deep);font-family:var(--font-body)}.xm-eyebrow[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-size:11px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.28em;color:var(--gold-deep);font-weight:500;margin:0}.xm-eyebrow[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7].tone-quiet{color:var(--ink-faint)}.xm-h2[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:clamp(1.7rem,3.2vw,2.6rem);line-height:1.08;letter-spacing:-.012em;color:var(--ink-deep);max-width:32ch;text-wrap:balance;margin:.7rem 0 0}.xm-hero[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{padding:4rem var(--gutter) 5rem;background:radial-gradient(140% 60% at 8% 0%,#a884360f,#a8843600 50%),var(--warm-paper-soft);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}.xm-crumbs[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-size:11px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.18em;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:.55rem;max-width:var(--max);width:100%;margin:0 auto 3rem;color:var(--ink-faint)}.xm-crumbs[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] a[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{color:var(--ink-faint);text-decoration:none;transition:color .18s}.xm-crumbs[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] a[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:hover,.xm-here[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{color:var(--ink-deep)}.xm-hero-grid[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{max-width:var(--max);margin:0 auto;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:2.5rem;align-items:end}@media(min-width:900px){.xm-hero-grid[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.05fr) minmax(0,1fr);gap:clamp(2.5rem,5vw,5rem)}}.xm-h1[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(2.6rem,6vw,4.6rem);line-height:1.02;letter-spacing:-.018em;color:var(--ink-deep);margin:1.5rem 0 0;text-wrap:balance}.xm-h1-line[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{display:block}.xm-h1[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] em[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-style:italic;font-weight:300;color:var(--gold-deep)}.xm-lead[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-size:1.08rem;line-height:1.65;color:var(--ink-soft);margin:1.6rem 0 0;max-width:52ch;text-wrap:pretty}.xm-sign[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-family:var(--font-display);font-style:italic;font-size:1rem;color:var(--ink-faint);margin:1.8rem 0 0}.xm-hero-fig[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{margin:0;border-radius:clamp(14px,1.6vw,22px);overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:4 / 5;box-shadow:0 24px 56px -28px #a8843647}.xm-hero-fig[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] img[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{width:100%;height:100%;-o-object-fit:cover;object-fit:cover;display:block}.xm-essay[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{padding:clamp(5rem,8vw,7rem) var(--gutter);background:var(--warm-paper)}.xm-essay-inner[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{max-width:68ch;margin:0 auto}.xm-essay-body[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{margin-top:1.2rem}.xm-essay-body[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] p[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-size:1.12rem;line-height:1.7;color:var(--ink-deep);text-wrap:pretty;margin:0 0 1.3rem}.xm-essay-body[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] p[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:last-child{margin-bottom:0;color:var(--ink-soft)}.xm-essay-body[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7].drop-cap>p[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:first-of-type:first-letter{font-family:var(--font-display);font-weight:500;font-style:italic;float:left;font-size:4.6em;line-height:.85;padding:.06em .12em 0 0;color:var(--gold)}.xm-band[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{position:relative;height:clamp(280px,48vh,520px);overflow:hidden;display:flex;align-items:flex-end}.xm-band-img[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;-o-object-fit:cover;object-fit:cover;display:block}.xm-band[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(0deg,#1614128c,#16141200 45%);pointer-events:none}.xm-band-line[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{position:relative;max-width:var(--max);width:100%;margin:0 auto;padding:0 var(--gutter) clamp(2rem,5vw,3rem);font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:clamp(1.25rem,2vw,1.75rem);color:#f4ecdc;max-width:min(36ch,calc(var(--max) - var(--gutter) * 2));text-wrap:balance}.xm-band-line[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] em[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-style:italic;font-weight:400}.xm-band-line[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7].tone-dark{color:var(--gold-soft)}.xm-band-fire[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:before{background:linear-gradient(0deg,#161412bf,#16141214 35%,#16141233)}.xm-diary[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{padding:clamp(5rem,8vw,7rem) var(--gutter);background:var(--warm-paper-soft)}.xm-diary-head[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{max-width:var(--max);margin:0 auto 3rem}.xm-timeline[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0 auto;max-width:880px;display:grid;gap:0}.xm-tl-row[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{display:grid;grid-template-columns:84px 24px 1fr;gap:1.4rem;padding:1.8rem 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);align-items:start}.xm-tl-row[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:first-child{border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}.xm-tl-time[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:1.1rem;font-weight:500;color:var(--gold-deep);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums lining-nums;padding-top:.2rem}.xm-tl-rule[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{position:relative;width:100%;height:100%;min-height:1.2rem}.xm-tl-rule[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:before{content:"";position:absolute;top:.7rem;left:50%;width:8px;height:8px;background:var(--gold);border-radius:50%;transform:translate(-50%)}.xm-tl-rule[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:after{content:"";position:absolute;top:1.4rem;left:50%;width:1px;height:calc(100% + 1.4rem);background:var(--rule);transform:translate(-50%)}.xm-tl-row[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:last-child .xm-tl-rule[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:after{display:none}.xm-tl-title[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:clamp(1.05rem,1.6vw,1.3rem);line-height:1.28;margin:0;color:var(--ink-deep);text-wrap:balance}.xm-tl-note[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.55;color:var(--ink-soft);margin:.45rem 0 0;max-width:50ch;text-wrap:pretty}.xm-trips[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{padding:clamp(5rem,8vw,7rem) var(--gutter);background:var(--warm-paper)}.xm-trips-head[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{max-width:var(--max);margin:0 auto 4rem}.xm-trips-list[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0 auto;max-width:var(--max);display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:clamp(3.5rem,6vw,5rem)}.xm-trip[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:1.8rem;align-items:center}@media(min-width:800px){.xm-trip[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.1fr) minmax(0,1fr);gap:clamp(2.5rem,5vw,5rem)}.xm-trip-flip[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] .xm-trip-fig[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{order:2}.xm-trip-flip[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] .xm-trip-copy[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{order:1}}.xm-trip-fig[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{margin:0;border-radius:clamp(14px,1.6vw,20px);overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:4 / 3;box-shadow:0 24px 60px -32px #a884364d}.xm-trip-fig[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] img[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{width:100%;height:100%;-o-object-fit:cover;object-fit:cover;display:block;transition:transform 1.2s cubic-bezier(.16,1,.3,1)}.xm-trip[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:hover .xm-trip-fig[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] img[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{transform:scale(1.025)}.xm-trip-tag[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-size:11px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.22em;color:var(--gold-deep);margin:0 0 .9rem}.xm-trip-title[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:clamp(1.55rem,2.8vw,2.1rem);line-height:1.15;margin:0 0 1rem;color:var(--ink-deep);text-wrap:balance}.xm-trip-body[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-size:1.02rem;line-height:1.65;color:var(--ink-soft);margin:0 0 1.4rem;max-width:50ch;text-wrap:pretty}.xm-trip-link[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.6rem;color:var(--gold-deep);font-size:12px;font-weight:600;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.22em;text-decoration:none;transition:transform .22s cubic-bezier(.16,1,.3,1)}.xm-trip-link[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:hover{transform:translate(3px);color:var(--gold)}.xm-faq[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{padding:clamp(5rem,8vw,7rem) var(--gutter);background:var(--warm-paper-soft)}.xm-faq-head[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{max-width:var(--max);margin:0 auto 2.8rem}.xm-faq-list[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{list-style:none;padding:0;max-width:var(--max);margin:0 auto;border-top:1px solid var(--rule-strong)}.xm-faq-item[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}.xm-faq-item[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule-strong)}.xm-faq-item[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] details[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{padding:1.5rem 0}.xm-faq-item[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] summary[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:grid;grid-template-columns:64px 1fr 24px;gap:1.2rem;align-items:start}.xm-faq-item[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] summary[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.xm-faq-n[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:.75rem;letter-spacing:.22em;color:var(--gold-deep);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums lining-nums;padding-top:.5rem}.xm-faq-q[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:clamp(1.1rem,1.6vw,1.35rem);line-height:1.32;color:var(--ink-deep);text-wrap:balance}.xm-faq-chev[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{margin-top:.6rem;color:var(--ink-faint);transition:transform .22s cubic-bezier(.16,1,.3,1)}.xm-faq-item[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7] details[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7][open] .xm-faq-chev[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{transform:rotate(180deg)}.xm-faq-a[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{margin:1rem 0 0 84px;font-size:1rem;line-height:1.65;color:var(--ink-soft);max-width:60ch;text-wrap:pretty}.xm-exit[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{padding:clamp(5rem,8vw,7rem) var(--gutter) clamp(6rem,9vw,8rem);background:var(--warm-paper);border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}.xm-exit-inner[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{max-width:56ch;margin:0 auto;text-align:center}.xm-exit-line[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:clamp(1.3rem,2.2vw,1.85rem);line-height:1.35;color:var(--ink-deep);margin:0 0 2rem;text-wrap:balance}.xm-exit-cta[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.7rem;padding:1rem 1.8rem;background:var(--ink-deep);color:var(--warm-paper);border-radius:999px;font-size:12.5px;font-weight:600;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.18em;text-decoration:none;transition:background .22s}.xm-exit-cta[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]:hover{background:var(--gold-deep)}.xm-exit-sign[data-astro-cid-t4lxpfm7]{font-family:var(--font-display);font-style:italic;font-size:.95rem;color:var(--ink-faint);margin:2rem 0 0}